CFM – Cubic Feet Per Minute; A standard measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 CFM per ton of air conditioning.

Capacity – The output or producing ability of a piece of cooling or heating equipment. Cooling and heating capacities are referred to on BTUs.

Compressor – The heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant in order to meet the cooling requirements of the system.

Condensor Coil or Outdoor Coil – In an air conditioner, the coil dissipates heat from the refrigerant, changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid. In a heat pump system, it absorbs heat from the outdoors.

Damper – Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.

Ductwork – Pipes or channels that carry air throughout your home. In a home comfort system, ductwork is critical to performance – in fact, it’s as critical as the equipment.

Evaporator Coil or Indoor Coil – The other half of your air conditioning system located inside your home in the indoor unit. This is where the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the air that passes over the coil.

Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger – Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home.

HSPF – Heating Seasonal Performance Factor; This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the unit.

Package Unit – A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed either beside, on top of the home, or sometimes in the attic.

Refrigerant – A chemical that produces a refrigerating effect while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R-22 refrigerant. R-22 is regulated by international controls under the Montreal Protocol and in the United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. It is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020. It’s used in approximately 95% of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S. today.

SEER – Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rati; A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the SEER, the more energy efficient the unit. The government’s minimum SEER rating is 10. (It’s similar to comparing miles per gallon in automobiles.)

Split System – The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.

Thermostat – A thermostat consists of a series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.

Ton – A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTUs per hour.

Zoning – A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need.

1. Check credentials- Before making your selection, call the Better Business Bureau to make sure the contractor is reputable. Also, find out if the contractor is a member of a local or national association such as the Air Conditioning Contractors Association of America.
2. Make sure the contractor is affiliated with a nationally known manufacturer. Contractors should be taking advantage of factory training offered by their manufacturer. As a result, when they make recommendations, you can be more assured that they’ve selected the right sized system for your home, and that they’ve been trained in installation and service.
3. Ask for references- Former customers are an excellent source of information. Also, ask to see installation photos. A contractor who is proud of his work will be more than happy to show it to you.
4. Expect an on-site evaluation of your home. A good contractor will take a thorough look at your home, ask questions, and evaluate your overall comfort needs before making a recommendation. Beware of a contractor that simply takes information over the phone. A good contractor will also look the part. While he’s evaluating your home, you should be evaluating him. Not only should he dress professionally, but his truck and printed materials should look professional as well.
5. Check local licenses- Depending on where you live, contractors may have to comply with certain local or state regulations, so ask to see proof of these licenses as well as insurance forms for liability and workmen’s compensation.
6. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Ask for details about the firm’s experience and the expertise of its staff. This is particularly important if you’re also adding or changing ductwork – in this case, experience is definitely a factor in getting the job done correctly.
7. Get a written proposal. To make a fair comparison, make sure the proposals you receive are all based on the same efficiency and equipment. You’ll also want to evaluate each contractor’s personal business standards and policies. For example, will he remove old equipment? Will he relocate equipment if you want your new system installed in a different location? What are his cleanup and care policies during installation? How will he handle emergency repair? These are just a few of the additional elements a good proposal will include.
8. Inquire about equipment and labor warranties. Limited warranties vary according to the manufacturer, so make sure you fully understand what you’re getting. Also, don’t forget to inquire about manufacturer’s extended warranties at the time of purchase and other warranties provided by the contractor.
9. Ask about preventive maintenance service contracts. Many contractors offer service contracts that call for periodic maintenance of equipment, and if needed, repairs. The fee for such contracts is usually well worth it in terms of obtaining optimum efficiency and performance for your system.
10. Insist on a written contract. Commit your agreement to writing and have the contractor sign it.

Only five active models listed in the 2005 Consumer’s Directory of Certified Efficiency Ratings meet 95% AFUE as of August 15, 2005. Since then, Goodman & Amana have added a new lines of gas furnaces that will meet this 95% rating. A total of 21 active models will qualify for the tax credit and 20 of those model are either Amana or Goodman.

Also, a separate tax credit of $50.00 for the furnace’s ECM variable speed motor makes the total tax credit $200.00 on furnaces that have the variable speed motor. Even 80% furnaces that have the ECM variable speed motor will qualify for the $50.00 tax credit.

Purchasers of highly efficient heating, cooling, and water heating equipment can take tax credits of up to $300 for purchasing qualifying equipment, as detailed below. These credits are available for systems placed in service from January 1, 2006, through December 31, 2007. There is a $500 cap on the credit per home, including the amount received for insulation, windows, air and duct sealing as described in the previous section.

What types of equipment qualify and for how much?

• High-efficiency gas, oil, and propane furnaces and boilers: $150
• High-efficiency central air conditioning units, including air-source and ground-source heat pumps: $300
• High-efficiency fans for heating and cooling systems: $50
• High-efficiency water heaters, including heat pump water heaters: $300

Where must the equipment be used?

Under guidance issued by the IRS, equipment is eligible if installed in a home occupied by a taxpayer as their principal residence at the time the equipment is installed. This implies that equipment in new homes is generally not eligible since new homes equipment is generally installed prior to occupancy. However, efficient equipment in new homes will help that home qualify for the new home tax credit.

What are the efficiency requirements to qualify for the credits?

Manufacturers and retailers should be able to help you tell whether a specific product qualifies. The qualification specifications are:

• Furnaces and boilers: Annual Fuel Use Efficiency (AFUE) 95 or higher
• Central air conditioning units:
  • Central air conditioning units must meet the highest tier standards set by the Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE), which require a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) of 15 and an Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) or 12.5 for split systems (those with separate indoor and outdoor units) and SEER 14 and EER 12 for single-package systems (typically located on a roof). SEER measures performance throughout the cooling season, EER measures performance on a very hot day.
  • Air-source heat pumps must have a Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) 9 or greater, SEER 15 or higher, and EER 13 or higher
  • Ground-source heat pumps must meet the following criteria (the same criteria as for Energy Star):
    • Closed-loop systems—14.1 cooling EER and 3.3 heating Coefficient of Performance (COP)
    • Open-loop systems—16.2 EER and 3.6 COP
    • Direct-expansion systems—15 EER and 3.5 COP

  In addition, ground-source heat pumps must include a desuperheater (which preheats water for a water heater) or an integrated water heating system.

• Fans for heating and cooling systems: fan uses no more than 2% of total heating system energy use, as defined by DOE test procedure
• Water heaters:
  • Gas or propane water heaters—Energy Factor of at least 0.8. The only models that meet this standard currently are tankless water heaters and some systems that combine both space and water heating.
  • Heat pump water heaters—Energy Factor of at least 2.0

What do I need to do to qualify for the incentives?

Under the IRS rules, manufacturers need to certify that specific measures are eligible. Homeowners should obtain a copy of this certification when buying these products from the manufacturer, contractor or retailer. Certifications need not be submitted to the IRS, but should be kept on file in case the IRS has questions. Homeowners should also make notes on when each eligible measure is installed- only measures “placed in service” in 2006 and 2007 are eligible.

Dry winter air, especially when combined with home heating, can contribute to uncomfortable dryness and irritation of the nose, throat, lips, and skin, as well as household nuisances such as peeling wallpaper, static electricity and cracking paint and wooden furniture. A simple and inexpensive remedy is to use a humidifier, which releases mist into the air, raising the humidity in the room.

Humidifiers come with their problems, however, because excess moisture can encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home, including dust mites and mold, both of which are implicated in allergies and other respiratory problems related to poor indoor air quality. Recent EPA studies suggest that ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers, also known as “cool mist” humidifiers, can disperse both microorganisms and mineral pollutants into the air. Breathing these pollutants has been linked to a malady called “humidifier fever,” an inflammation of the lungs and breathing passages.

Young children, the elderly, and those who have respiratory problems or lung diseases are particularly susceptible to certain types of airborne pollutants, including the minerals, bacteria, and molds released from household humidifiers. But by following a few simple tips, you can greatly reduce the potential problems caused by your humidifier.

HUMIDIFIER TYPES AND POTENTIAL POLLUTANTS

Home humidifiers may be a central unit built into the central HVAC system, smaller console-mounted units designed for floor use, or smaller portable units, but they all generally fall into a few basic types:

Ultrasonic – creates a cool mist by means of ultrasonic sound vibrations.
Impeller- also called “cool mist,” which produce a mist by means of a high speed rotating disk
Evaporative- transmits moisture into the air invisibly by using a fan to blow air through a moistened absorbent material, such as a belt, wick, or filter
Steam vaporizer- creates steam by heating water with an electrical heating element or electrodes. “Warm mist” humidifiers are a type of steam vaporizer humidifier in which the steam is cooled before exiting the machine.

Typically speaking, studies have shown that Ultrasonic or Impeller humidifiers are among the worst offenders when it comes to mold and mineral dust pollution. But while evaporative and “warm mist” humidifiers have not been shown to release significant amounts of molds or bacteria into the air, be aware that mold can grow in any humidifier which uses a tank of standing water. Excessively humid conditions may also contribute to condensation on walls and other surfaces, which also encourages mold to grow.

The first tips of humidifier use in the home is to only use a humidifier when you need it: most recommend keeping the indoor humidity at or below 50-55%. You should also position your humidifier at least a few feet away from walls and furniture, if possible.

HUMIDIFIER USE AND CARE

It is important to use a humidifier only when conditions require it, to use the correct moisture setting for existing conditions, and to clean it thoroughly and frequently. The possible health effects resulting from the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers are not yet fully understood, but it’s prudent to reduce the potential for personal exposures to these materials by taking the following precautions, particularly when using ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers.

Refill Daily:
Empty the tank, wipe all surfaces dry, and refill the water in portable humidifiers daily to reduce any growth of microorganisms; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for changing water in console humidifiers. Be sure you unplug the unit from the electrical socket first. For console or central HVAC systems, avoid letting water stand in the tank for extended periods of time.

Use Low-Mineral or Distilled Water:
Use water with low mineral content to prevent the build-up of scale and the dispersal of minerals into the air. Distilled water may still contain some minerals, but may be the best bet, particularly if your home has “hard water.” Look specifically for “distilled water;” water labeled “artesian” or “spring” water has not been demineralized, and may make matters worse.

Regular Cleaning:
Clean portable humidifiers every third day. Empty the tank and use a brush or other scrubber to clean it. Remove any scale, deposits, or film that has formed on the sides of the tank or on interior surfaces, and wipe all surfaces dry. Again, be sure you unplug the unit first.

Disinfect:
Follow manufacturer’s suggestions on the use of cleaning products or disinfectants. In the absence of specific recommendations, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide. If you use any cleaning or disinfecting agent, rinse the tank thoroughly with several changes of tap water to prevent dispersal of chemicals into the air during use.

Don’t Overdo It:
Do not humidify indoor relative humidity levels exceeding 50%. Higher humidity levels may encourage the growth of molds and bacteria in the home. Look for a humidifier with a built-in humidistat to maintain moisture level, or use a hygrometer, available at most hardware stores. If water condenses on windows, walls, or pictures, either relocate the humidifier, lower its humidistat setting, or reduce its use.

Replace Filters and Wicks:
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the use, maintenance, and replacement of any materials supplied with the humidifier. Use appropriate materials as recommended by the product manufacturer.

Seasonal Cleaning:
Clean the humidifier, as directed, at the end of the humidifying season or when the product will not be in frequent use. Before storage, make sure all the parts are dry. Dispose of all used demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters. Store the unit in a dry location. After storage, clean the unit again and remove any dust on the outside.

FINAL NOTE